Journey to Qandil mountains, the PKK main base in Iraq
Since I started reporting from Iraq and Syria, I always wanted to go to Qandil. Many Kurdish fighters told me about this 28 miles long valley which has become the PKK main headquarter in Northern Iraq. Their stories involved tunnels digged deep into the ground, camouflage training camps, a lot of politics. All of them were sure Qandil is impossible to penetrate. All tales involved a kind of a magical element.
The PKK has been labelled a terrorist organization by the Turkish government and many Western countries, including the US. The PKK picked up an armed struggle in 1984 and started a civil war against Ankara claiming for an autonomous State in which the Kurds will be free. At least 40,000 people, mainly Kurds, died during the conflict.
A lot of things has changed since, starting from the geo-political scenario and alliances on the ground. The global changes imposed a renovation even within the organization which through the past 40 years changed mentality and somehow beliefs. The first main adjustment arrived when the PKK leader and co-founder Abdullah Ocalan, was arrested in Nairobi in 1999. I wrote about it in an article for War Is Boring.
